In the midst of our technology-focused culture, there are still those who work with their hands, practicing age-old crafts with much the same tools that have been used for centuries.

Craig Thomas, owner of CR Thomas Bindery LLC, is one such individual. Working out of his home studio in Bedford, he repairs books and creates slipcases in similar fashion to the craftsmen of yesteryear.

To see a gallery of Thomas’ work, visit www.crthomasllc.com.

Thomas took some time away from his clamps and glue pots to share how to properly handle an old book, why a good slipcase can be a book’s best friend, and why e-books and tablets haven’t affected his business.

Here’s part of the conversation:

Q: How did you become interested in bookbinding?

A: I’ve been a serious book collector for many years and have always been interested. I kind of stumbled into it one day when I visited Ken Callahan of Callahan’s Booksellers in Peterborough. He directed me to a wonderful master binder in Vermont, Malcolm Summers, who became my mentor. It’s a relationship that continues to this day. Ken also has become instrumental in that growth, as well as a good customer. Tom Ives, of NH Bindery, has been a major influence. Good people that wanted to give something back for their craft.

Q: How did you learn this craft? How long did it take?

A: I was mentored by a master, schooled in England, now residing in Vermont. I’m still learning. You never stop learning; there is so much involved and many facets to the craft. They have colleges in England with full curriculums devoted to bookbinding, and apprenticeships are common and extensive. I’ve been at it for four years, two professionally, and I’m constantly running into perplexing situations. I really couldn’t tell you how long it took. I guess I felt fairly confident after two years of hands-on work. It’s been said that you learn more by doing than any other way. Hands-on!

Q: Have you trained anyone in the craft yourself?

A: No. Even if I could, I don’t have the time. I’ll leave that to folks better qualified. I have had individuals who have expressed an interest.

Q: What kind of tools are used in bookbinding?

A: Pretty simple for the most part: cutting tools such as scalpels, a bone folder – the most important tool – rulers, glue brushes. Those are some of the basics to get started. When you get more involved, a hot foil printer for labeling, nipping press and finish press become important, but starting out, keep it simple.

Q: How do you go about the restoration process? Do you try to use materials from the same period as the book, or do you use new materials?

A: Every project is different. Whenever possible, you try to maintain the integrity of the book – in other words, sometimes less is better. Many books just need reattachment and not rebuilding, or a little touch-up. I try not to do unnecessary work. If I have access to period materials, I’ll use them, but that’s not always the case, or necessary.

Just because a book is old doesn’t mean it’s valuable in a collectible sense. It might have sentimental value to the owner, but that’s it, and it might not warrant a major investment. Just making it sound and usable is important in that case. I have to determine many factors before you attach a value and how much time and money should be involved.

Q: What are the most common repairs you do?

A: Rebacking spines, reattaching covers and replacing endpapers; also, hinge repair is very common, on new books as well as old. Not all of my work is on old books. Many new books are problems, too.

Q: About how long does it take to restore a book? How long does it take construct a slipcase?

A: I could give you an arbitrary time it takes to restore a book, but each has its own set of issues. I just finished a historical family history that took a couple months of rebuilding and remaking basically a pile of pages, or signatures as they are called, and manufacturing that into a readable, page-turning book. Or it can take a couple hours, disregarding the drying process, in a relatively straightforward project. Each is different.

Slipcases generally take anywhere from an hour and a half to two hours, not including drying time. As in all binding procedures, drying time is significant.

Q: Are there any benefits to storing a book in a slipcase?

A: Many. It’s insurance for a cherished heirloom or a favorite tome. Slipcases prevent the wear and tear of constant shifting on a bookshelf, dust and dirt, ultraviolet damage from the sun, and the constant pulling from the top of the spine when you want to grab your favorite read from the shelf. And they complement a good book in appearance, as well as adding value to the book. It’s a win/win situation.

Q: Why do you use acid-free papers to line your slipcases?

A: Protection. I use acid-free materials throughout the process of bookbinding. Nothing can destroy a book worse than acidity.

Q: What is the most difficult repair you’ve done?

A: The family history book. It took months of painstaking detail and work.

Q: What’s the most unusual request you had?

A: I can’t think of anything really out of the ordinary. I guess the one that sticks in my mind was completed this Christmas for a nice gal who wanted to bind and box a book she printed out on the computer, about 500 individual pages, and then build a clamshell case to complement it. It was a bit difficult binding so many loose pages. A bit of engineering skill, I guess, but it came out very nice. She was very happy. I hope still. I was so pleased I included it on my website in the gallery.

Q: Have you seen any decline in the demand for your services with the rise of e-books and tablets?

A: Not even a little. They have limited application in general. You’re not going to replace the printed word anytime soon, I believe. As Mark Twain said, “The rumors of my demise are greatly exaggerated.”

Q: How should people store/handle their old books to avoid damaging them?

A: That’s easy. Keep them stored upright, out of the direct sun. Ultraviolet rays can ruin a book quickly, in a day. Store in a cool, dry space with limited exposure to humidity. Humidity curls and cups pages and covers. Try and limit it as much as possible – it’s not easy, I know.

Don’t grab a book at the top of the spine to pull it off the shelf. That’s the No. 1 issue I see. That goes along with storing your books loosely on the shelf. Too many people jam too many books together. This can damage the book by putting too much of a strain on the book itself. If it’s a valuable book, it might be worth investing in a slipcase or clamshell-type box to protect your investment long-term.